Forgotten Man

I realize that men’s wear is the toughest segment in the retail business. I also realize that most men do not like to walk into a store, let alone shop. In addition, so many brilliant retailers have tried to appeal just to men in a specific way (I think of Structure from Limited as a valiant try that ultimately failed as an example).

Most retailers that are targeting men, do it within the context of a “unisex” concept (such as Gap, Urban Outfitters, Banana Republic, J. Crew to name a few). Experience tells me that their male business is no more than 30% of the entire box’s business if they are lucky – maybe 1/3, tops. But to be honest, most are playing safe, to a very conservative vein of customer I gather in order to minimize markdowns.

I object. There is very little colour, very little imagination. Even at Gap with their new designer, their men’s wear selection is safe, dark and very similar to the past 30 or so years. I am not expecting something wild, crazy and very young. But what I am asking for is some novelty, some colour and some excitement. Maybe I am in the minority but even the safe stuff needs to be merchandised and it is hard to capture attention for a style or a cut visually with just dark olive and burgundy as the “pop” colours.

Some of the high end men’s wear merchants are among the finest in the land. I think of Rubinstein’s in New Orleans (and my thoughts are with everyone in the Gulf Coast at this time because of Hurricane Gustav), Louis of Boston, Barney’s of New York, Harry Rosen of Toronto to name a few (although Barney’s has morphed into so much more as has Louis to a smaller extent). They have all been innovative, visually exciting and colourful most of the time.

So what do I suggest? I am not sure. I would encourage those that have real estate devoted to men’s that they push the envelope from a presentation standpoint. Being visually appealing is not the exclusive territory of women’s wear. Men will react to visual stimuli when it’s there.

It’s time to drag us men into the next phase of retailing, merchandising and dressing. We need the inspiration and the attention to do it.

TheRetailTherapist

Get in the Game!

There is little doubt that the era of big time sports has been upon us for quite a while. Nothing stirs passions amongst North Americans like a great inter-state rivalry or an intra-divisional clash of teams from different (or even similar) geographic regions and/or cities. I acknowledge that there may be more passionate fans globally when it comes to the “beautiful game” of football (or soccer as it is called in North America), but I want to focus on the retailing efforts of a couple of the big name, major sports leagues that North American fans tend to revere. I also acknowledge North America’s efforts surrounding Major League Soccer (MLS) and the merchandising and marketing muscle of professional wrestling and NASCAR.

Because of the passion and the amount of money now involved in today’s big league sports (Major League Baseball (MLB), National Football League (NFL), National Basketball Association (NBA) and National Hockey League (NHL)), marketing these leagues is very big business and there is no expense spared in order to position or “brand” their league and logo to the general population. Admittedly, hockey ranks behind the “Big 3″ but this means they are required to create even more buzz and energy surrounding their product because of their standing.

That is why I find the stores that two of these leagues have built and operate within blocks of each other, fascinating (I have yet to see an NFL or MLB store).

The NBA store, which is on very tony and very expensive 5th Avenue has been around for a while and is certainly a full expression of the game it serves. It is noisy, packed with merchandise and offers a variety of activities which provides just enough entertainment. Anything related to the selling of NBA logo merchandise is pretty well available somewhere in this store. It takes a while to meander the entire place on two floors and there are interesting little rooms to explore. I have never been disappointed with respect to being in stock in any type of player or team jersey I have asked for or even in an obscure NBA logo item like a Timberwolves lunch box. They had it.

The contrast is evident when you then head a block west to Avenue of the Americas (6th Avenue) into the shiny new NHL store “Powered by Reebok”. I am not sure what the arrangement was between these two titans but the store is not a good reflection on either brand, especially when you compare it to the NBA store. You would think these guys would have gone to school on that basketball emporium.

The NHL store is a stark, white room with an exceedingly high ceiling, with very little merchandise available. There are the requisite large screen televisions blasting the NHL Network feed to anyone who cared (mainly the staff). The mezzanine in the back of the store (almost like a balcony) houses the studio for NHL Commissioner Gary Bettman’s XM Satellite Radio show.

The merchandise assortment was pathetic, but then again, hockey is not the most popular sport in the U.S., so why carry much merchandise if you aren’t going to sell it. Correct me if I am wrong, but the goal of these types of stores is not necessarily to become cash cows, but to be brand beacons. Am I mistaken? This is an incredible opportunity to show Americans from all over the U.S. and tourists from all over the world (as Manhattan surely is a magnet for all of those) what the NHL is, where it has been and where it is going through their merchandising. Yes, all leagues have internet presences (and a dictatorial attitude surrounding the look and feel for some of the leagues – hence the importance of branding online at least), but the one place with the league name on the door, where customers can physically interact with the brand and the product is their very own store. The NHL flat out blew it.

My cousins visited both stores in Manhattan recently. Their sons are huge hockey fans from “Hockeytown”, U.S.A. (Detroit, reigning Stanley Cup Champions). All one of the sons wanted was a particular player’s sweater from an “Original Six” team. No stock was available and they couldn’t even make one up for him. What is the purpose of the NHL store, if they cannot satisfy the fans desire for basic merchandise? Not to mention, there was no breadth or depth to the assortment and the visuals were lousy. This should be a hockey fan’s nirvana. All my cousin’s son wanted to do in Manhattan was visit the NHL store. They walked out empty handed. But they walked over to the NBA store and loaded up with stuff. Does that tell you anything?

The NHL have clearly missed another opportunity to brand themselves as belonging in the big leagues when it comes to marketing and reaching out to their fans. Maybe instead of Reebok’s money, they should spend some of their own so that hockey fans can get a similar retail experience to basketball fans.

TheRetailTherapist

Retail Life is Like a Box of Chocolates (or Gummy Worms)

I was struck by the energy, colour and panache of Dylan’s Candy Bar when I first visited them on 3rd Avenue in Manhattan. I believe it is the way candy should be merchandised and sold – in a vibrant, colourful, fun atmosphere that doesn’t take anything very seriously. Chocolate and candy are part of life’s delights (especially for children, although even I am a self-confessed “Chocoholic”) and they are also part of life’s sweet little sins. How many times have children or adults tried to sneak in an extra treat without their parents or spouses knowing?

This should have been the evolution of “sweets” retailing, but alas, I am afraid it is not.

The sweets retailer I am most disappointed in from this perspective is Laura Secord. This almost century old retailer has not yet entered this century, even though they have new ownership and lots of money to do so. It is disappointing to walk by some of the very best real estate in Canada and be uninspired by their merchandising, their assortment and their presentation. They have it all – an exceptional brand name and virtually 100% brand recognition in Canada; a rich, authentic history; the very best real estate; and a quality product. So, why, I ask, does it have to be so boring? Why can’t we be treated to some buzz, some flare, some panache? Can anyone tell me?

Although Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory has tried to energize their stores, and they have to a certain extent, it still feels a little dark and serious for me. They rate a mention because they do a better job than Laura Secord, but still have a ways to go in the whimsy department.

Dylan’s Candy Bar is only 6 years old, and granted, it only has 6 stores (not sure why) and it is the brainchild of Ralph and Ricki Lauren’s daughter Dylan. Public relations is not an issue here. But she has the right idea. She has made this concept a destination. Everyone who walks by is compelled to walk in. Isn’t that the essence of merchandising? Isn’t that the goal specialty retail?

I say it isn’t good enough just to have a quality product or a great location. In order to maximize one’s specialty retail business, one has to have a compelling proposition visually and atmospherically. It has to exude energy and vitality. It has to constantly refresh itself (hence the expansion and makeover of the Third Street store recently).

I think Dylan has it right. Where is Laura really going?

TheRetailTherapist